Technical
Information
The
Structure of Hair
Human
hair is a hard, fibrous substance with
a delicate balance of protein and
moisture. Unlike skin, hair is not
living tissue and therefore does not
have the ability to repair
itself.
It is
in the delicate inner structure of the
hair where we find moisture (water)
along with the hard and soft protein.
On the outside of the hair shaft there
are 7 to 11 layers of interlocking
scales, which are called the cuticle.
These form a protective barrier and
hold the structure in place.
Protein
levels in healthy hair are around
83%-87%; moisture levels are about 3%.
The balance is made up of sugar, salt
and trace elements. It is essential
that this balance is maintained to keep
hair healthy, strong and in good
condition.
This
is why care must be taken to protect
its condition and use the most natural
and gentle products that are available,
such as the Organic Care Systems range
of products. This professional range is
specifically formulated to work in
conjunction with Organic Colour
Systems.
It is
essential to understand what products
are, what is in them, and how they work
in order to maintain the good condition
of both your hair and scalp. Products
that can maintain the natural pH
balance should be seriously
considered.
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The
importance of restoring the
correct pH balance after
colouring.
The
pH scale is a measure of
acidity and alkalinity which
ranges from 0 to 14 with 7
(pure water) being neutral.
The natural pH level of hair
and the surface of your skin
is between 4.5 and
5.5.
The
ideal level for our hair (and
skin) is between 4.5 - 5.5.
Above 5.5 the hair starts to
open and below 4.5 it starts
to contract.
To
colour hair permanently we
have to lift the cuticle and
allow permanent colour into
the hair. The only way to do
this is to alter the
acid-alkaline balance (the pH
balance) of the
hair.
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There
are two ways to do this and open the
cuticle to allow colouring to take
place.
The
first is to suspend the hair in a
substance such as ammonia. This takes
the hair well beyond its normal pH and
causes the hair to swell considerably.
This is effective for attaching colour,
but has numerous side effects including
damage to the hair.
The
second, more natural method is to
suspend the hair in a substance that
acts as a moisturiser. This softens the
cuticle and, because it does not take
the hair as far from its natural pH,
causes it to open rather than
swell.
The
pH of Organic Colour Systems' colours
is 8.5 to 9.2. This is a stable pH
level - unlike ammonia-based colours
which can go as high as 11+ when you
add heat.
Our
system does not take the hair as far
from the natural pH balance and it is
able to close the cuticle down when
shampooing and applying conditioner.
This gives the hair a natural feel and
shine.
Because
there is no ammonia or ammonia
substitutes there is no damage to the
hair and the hair maintains its natural
moisture and protein
balance.
More
about ammonia
Ammonia
not only negatively affects the cuticle
of the hair, it also damages an amino
acid or protein called tyrosine which
is found inside the hair
shaft.
Tyrosine
is responsible for producing melanin
(the natural pigment in the hair
shaft). When the Tyrosine is damaged,
the hair's ability to hold onto colour
(the hair's own natural colour or
pigments introduced into the hair) is
greatly reduced or eliminated
altogether.
When
you introduce colour into the hair
shaft without damaging the tyrosine the
colour will last longer, because the
colour has something to bond to.
Without ammonia the results are
superior in every way.
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